![]() I learned this trick from a master plasterer. Your first coat is done! You’re ready for the interesting part… Step 6: “Reactivate” And Scrape The Drywall Compound Let your pan and drywall knives dry to prevent rusting. Scrape any excess mud into a trash bag, then clean out your mud pan thoroughly in the bucket. Keep a bucket half-full of water nearby for cleaning off your tools. (By deep, I mean no more than 1/8” or so.) Make a soft, low mound of mud, thin to non-existent at the edges deepest in the middle. You just want to get the whole area covered. Work your way outward to the edges.ĭon’t worry about ridges in the patch at this point. Leave the thickest amount in the center of the repair area. You want a clean “line” of mud sitting on the edge of the blade. Also, make sure there aren’t any globs hanging off the sides of the knife. If you have some compound on the back of the knife, scrape it off on the top edge of the pan. This pulls the mud on the edge of the knife from the mud in the pan. Scrape the blade up the wall in a smooth draw. Press the blade of the knife into the compound and drag some to the side of the pan. (If your patch area is really small, use a smaller knife, 4″ or 6″). The wider blade will really help “fan out” the material. Therefore, there’s really no point to use anything but a 12” drywall knife. We’re not covering tape joints in this project. Trowel the first coat of mud onto the wall, using your 12″ drywall knife. Now, you’re ready to apply! Step 5: Trowel The Mud Onto The Wall Work it right back into a smooth consistency. It’s just a natural part of the chemical process. The compound thickens somewhat at this point. I have no idea why this occurs, but every good plasterer knows about it. ![]() The mud is achieving something known as a “false set.” A chemical reaction is taking place in the pan. When your drywall mud is the right consistency, set it aside for a full minute. Step 4: Let The Fresh Drywall Mud “Set Up” Here’s a good video for mixing small batches: A little experimentation will help you get the right combination. If it seems too doughy, splash in a little more water. If your mixture seems too soupy, add a little more compound. That keeps pockets of air or dry powder from showing up on the wall later. Very importantly, eliminate any chunks or bubbles in the mixture. The mud should hold the shape of a groove when you drag your finger through it. Ultimately, the goal is to achieve a consistency similar to peanut butter. This pulls the paste towards the center, where it can be mixed effectively. ![]() Periodically scrape the walls of the pan. Now, work the trowel through he mix more vigorously. When this happens, you have a lumpy paste in the pan. Sudden motions at this point will just cause a powder explosion! Very carefully swirl the two parts together until the water begins to soak the powder. Then, use your margin trowel to mix the components.ĭrag the trowel edgewise through the center of the pan slowly. Now, use a cup to begin shaking the dry joint compound into the water in the pan.Ĭover the water with joint compound (the powder will mostly float on the surface). ![]() Pour just a little bit of water into your mud pan. This helps when you “feather” the drywall mud outwards. Be sure to scour a space several inches larger than the repair site itself. Use your drywall sander paddle to pass a low-grit mesh pad over the area in sall circular sweeps. That makes the new mud grip the surface better. In other words, you roughen the existing texture. When you sand the wall, you provide the area with more “tooth”. To begin your repair, lightly sand the area where you’ll apply your mud patch. Sanding an unfinished area to prepare for a drywall patch ![]()
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